{"id":227,"date":"2006-07-26T19:39:00","date_gmt":"2006-07-26T19:39:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/dost.bilkent.edu.tr\/?p=227"},"modified":"2024-08-09T19:45:49","modified_gmt":"2024-08-09T19:45:49","slug":"24-26-haziran-2006-kaldi-kar-buz-zirve-denemesi","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/dost.bilkent.edu.tr\/?p=227","title":{"rendered":"24-26 Haziran 2006 Kald\u0131 Kar-Buz Zirve Denemesi"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p>Foto\u011fraflar kurtar\u0131lamam\u0131\u015ft\u0131r.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Orijinal Yaz\u0131: Celil Ya\u011f\u0131z<\/p>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-text-color has-base-color has-alpha-channel-opacity has-base-background-color has-background is-style-wide is-style-wide--1\"\/>\n\n\n\n<div style=\"height:40px\" aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-spacer\"><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p style=\"line-height:1.2\">19.07.2007 &#8211; Edit: <strong>Bu faaliyetten bir sene sonra Egemen, 2 arkadasiyla tekrar denemis bu rotayi. Cikmislar da. Rotada biz 50 metre solda kalmisiz. Tunc&#8217;un Aladaglar&#8217;da 50 Rota kitabinda anlatilirken kulvarin ikiye ayrildigi yerde saga doneceksiniz yaziyor ama iste bir turlu emin olamamistik biz. Kaldi tarafina cok da yaklasmamak lazim demek ki.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<div style=\"height:30px\" aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-spacer\"><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p style=\"line-height:1.2\">Kat\u0131l\u0131mc\u0131lar: <strong>Egemen \u0130PEK, Cihan DABAKO\u011eLU, Celil YA\u011eIZ<\/strong><br>Faaliyet Sorumlusu:<strong> Egemen \u0130PEK<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Tarih:<strong> 24-26.06.2006<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p style=\"line-height:1.2\">Teknik Malzemeler:<strong> 3 sikke, 2 buz vidas\u0131, 60m lik yar\u0131m ip, 6 kilitli karabin, perlon bantlar, 6 express.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Ki\u015fisel Malzemeler:<strong> Kask, kazma, krampon, emniyet ve ini\u015f malzemeleri<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p style=\"line-height:1.2\"><strong>Egemen haftasonu Cihan&#8217;la Kald\u0131 Kuzey Kar-Buz deneyece\u011fiz dedi\u011fi anda i\u00e7imde hemen bir k\u0131p\u0131rdanma oldu. Ad\u0131 hakk\u0131nda arkada\u015flarla geyik yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z Kald\u0131 Da\u011f&#8217;\u0131na(-Niye Kald\u0131 demi\u015fler? \u00c7\u00fcnk\u00fc en sona o kalm\u0131\u015f :} ) kar-buz kulvar\u0131ndan t\u0131rmanmay\u0131 deneyecektik. Daha ba\u015ftan itibaren faaliyetin \u00e7ok muhabbetli olaca\u011f\u0131 belliydi. Ni\u011fde 01.00 arabas\u0131na binip 1-2 saatlik muhabbet, bir o kadar da uykuyla terminale indik. 7 deki \u00c7amard\u0131 dolmu\u015funa binmeden \u00f6nce i\u00e7ti\u011fimiz mercimek \u00e7orbas\u0131 uykumuzu a\u00e7mas\u0131na ra\u011fmen \u00c7amard\u0131 yolunun bozuk olmas\u0131n\u0131n da katk\u0131s\u0131yla dolmu\u015fta herkes uyudu. Mehmet Abi&#8217;nin evine gelip Ak\u015famp\u0131nar\u0131 y\u00f6n\u00fcne gidecek di\u011fer ekipleri beklerken evde yo\u011fun \u0131srarlara dayanamay\u0131p \ud83d\ude42 bir yemek daha yedik.Mehmet Abi&#8217;nin o g\u00fczel kirazlar\u0131n\u0131 da unutmamak laz\u0131m tabi. B\u00f6ylelikle faaliyetimize karn\u0131m\u0131z tok, keyfimiz ve iste\u011fimiz tam bir \u015fekilde ba\u015flad\u0131k. Trakt\u00f6rden inip di\u011fer gruplarla birlikte Ak\u015famp\u0131nar\u0131&#8217;na kadar y\u00fcr\u00fcd\u00fck. Burda Cihan faaliyet sonras\u0131 tek ba\u015f\u0131ma bir ka\u00e7 g\u00fcn tak\u0131l\u0131r\u0131m diyerek, Egemen&#8217;in &#8220;Kalmazs\u0131n sen. Bizle gelirsin&#8221; \u0131srarlar\u0131na ra\u011fmen \u00e7ad\u0131r kurdu( Tabi ki doyurucu faaliyetimiz sonunda Cihan bu fikrinden vazge\u00e7ti ).<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p style=\"line-height:1.2\"><strong>14.00 da Ak\u015famp\u0131nar\u0131&#8217;ndan \u00e7\u0131k\u0131p Lahitkaya ile Trango Towers&#8217;\u0131n aras\u0131ndan Kald\u0131&#8217;ya giden vadiye do\u011fru y\u00fcr\u00fcmeye ba\u015flad\u0131k. Arada verdi\u011fimiz molada hava kapanmaya ba\u015flad\u0131.Ya\u011far m\u0131 ya\u011fmaz m\u0131 diye d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn\u00fcrken akl\u0131m\u0131zda Mehmet Abi&#8217;nin annesinin &#8220;Bu sene hi\u00e7 ya\u011fmur ya\u011fmad\u0131. Bah\u00e7eler kurudu kald\u0131.&#8221; s\u00f6zleri vard\u0131. Devam etmeye karar verip saat 18.00 da bivak yerimize ula\u015ft\u0131k ve yerimizi g\u00fczelce haz\u0131rlay\u0131p biraz muhabbet ve yemek sefas\u0131ndan sonra uykuya dald\u0131k.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p style=\"line-height:1.2\"><strong>Sabah saat 4.30 da kalk\u0131p 05.53 de y\u00fcr\u00fcmeye ba\u015flad\u0131k( Bu kay\u0131tlar\u0131n hepsi dakikas\u0131 dakikas\u0131na, Cihan&#8217;\u0131n saati sa\u011folsun \ud83d\ude42 ). Havan\u0131n \u00e7ok ayd\u0131nl\u0131k olmas\u0131 bizde ge\u00e7 kald\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z hissi uyand\u0131r\u0131yordu. \u00d6nceki g\u00fcn havan\u0131n kapatmas\u0131na ra\u011fmen gece boyu ya\u011f\u0131\u015f olmam\u0131\u015ft\u0131 ve sabah hava gayet a\u00e7\u0131kt\u0131. Bu g\u00fczel havada y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fcp rotan\u0131n alt taraf\u0131na geldi\u011fimizde saat 6.45 i g\u00f6steriyordu. Kramponlar\u0131 ve kemerlerimizi tak\u0131p, biraz yeme i\u00e7me fasl\u0131ndan sonra 7.20 de kulvara girdik. Yakla\u015f\u0131k 35 dakka mola vermi\u015fiz. Hepsi Cihan&#8217;in ba\u011flamal\u0131 kramponlar\u0131 y\u00fcz\u00fcnden \ud83d\ude42 . Ba\u015flarda her \u015fey g\u00fczel gidiyordu, hava \u00e7ok g\u00fczeldi ve s\u0131cakt\u0131; s\u0131cak insan\u0131 rahats\u0131z ediyordu ama kulvarda g\u00f6lgeye girdi\u011fimizde keyfimiz en \u00fcst seviyeye ula\u015ft\u0131. Yakla\u015f\u0131k 2900 metreden t\u0131rman\u0131\u015fa ge\u00e7tik. Ba\u015flarda Cihan&#8217;la ikide bir tekrarlad\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z Touching the Void&#8217;ten &#8216;This is what we live for&#8217; s\u00f6z\u00fc duyuluyordu hep. B\u00f6ylelikle kulvarda kramponlar\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 \u00e7\u0131karmadan \u00e7o\u011funlukla kardan ama arada da kaya etaplar\u0131ndan t\u0131rmand\u0131k. Bir yerden sa\u011fa d\u00f6nece\u011fimizi biliyorduk ama oran\u0131n neresi oldu\u011funa karar veremedik bir t\u00fcrl\u00fc. 3230 metreye kadar arada bir kere ip a\u00e7arak geldik. Saat ise 11.00 e yakla\u015fmaktayd\u0131. Arada g\u00f6rd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcm\u00fcz bir sikke buradan birilerinin ini\u015fe ge\u00e7mi\u015f oldu\u011funu hat\u0131rlat\u0131yordu bize ve ini\u015f sebebi hakk\u0131nda \u00e7ok da iyimser d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnm\u00fcyorduk a\u00e7\u0131k\u00e7as\u0131. Bulundu\u011fumuz rotan\u0131n yanl\u0131\u015f rota oldu\u011fu ve milletin zorunlu ini\u015f yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131 d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcncesi hakimdi. 3280 metrede de b\u0131rak\u0131lm\u0131\u015f bir ipe rastlay\u0131nca t\u0131rman\u0131\u015f iyice beyin f\u0131rt\u0131nas\u0131 halinde y\u00fcr\u00fcmeye ba\u015flad\u0131. Burada tats\u0131z bir kaya etab\u0131n\u0131n t\u0131rmanmak \u00e7ok vaktimizi ald\u0131. Biraz daha yukar\u0131 \u00e7\u0131k\u0131p ipin nereden geldi\u011fine bakt\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131zda Cihan ipin tak\u0131lm\u0131\u015f oldu\u011funu g\u00f6rd\u00fc. Soner \u00dcnsal ad\u0131na \u00e7ak\u0131lm\u0131\u015f plaketin yakla\u015f\u0131k 10 metre alt\u0131nda tak\u0131lm\u0131\u015ft\u0131 ip. \u00c7antalardan \u00e7\u0131kar\u0131lan raporlara ve haritalara bak\u0131p Cihan iyimserli\u011fini kaybetmeyip do\u011fru rotada oldu\u011fumuzu, Egemen ise \u00e7ok solda oldu\u011fumuzu ve futbol sahas\u0131n\u0131n sa\u011fda kald\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 s\u00f6yl\u00fcyordu. Bense ini\u015f veya yan ge\u00e7i\u015f fikrine hi\u00e7 s\u0131cak bakamad\u0131\u011f\u0131mdan dolay\u0131 t\u0131rmanmay\u0131 daha uygun buluyordum. Bu arada hava bize s\u00fcrpriz yap\u0131p kapatmaya ba\u015flad\u0131. Da\u011fda ilk defa g\u00f6rd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcm bir \u015fekilde a\u011f\u0131r bir dolu ya\u011f\u0131\u015f\u0131 ba\u015flam\u0131\u015ft\u0131. Bivak torbas\u0131n\u0131n alt\u0131na girip doludan kendimizi korumaya \u00e7al\u0131\u015ft\u0131k. Dolular kask\u0131m\u0131z\u0131n \u00fcst\u00fcnde sekiyorlard\u0131, s\u0131rt\u0131m\u0131z ve biva\u011f\u0131 tutan parmaklar\u0131m\u0131z da doludan nasibini alm\u0131\u015ft\u0131. Yan\u0131m\u0131zda olu\u015fan \u015felale de d\u00fc\u015fen ta\u015flar\u0131n habercisi olunca dolunun durmas\u0131 i\u00e7in herkes dua ediyordu. Yar\u0131m saat ya\u011f\u0131\u015f\u0131n bitmesini bekledik. Dolu ya\u011f\u0131\u015f\u0131 yerini hafif ya\u011fmura b\u0131rak\u0131nca 3294 metreden saat 16.45 te her taraf\u0131m\u0131z \u0131slak bir \u015fekilde zorunlu ini\u015fe ge\u00e7tik. Bir sikke b\u0131rakarak, bir de \u00e7\u0131k\u0131\u015fta g\u00f6rd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcm\u00fcz sikkeyi kullanarak kaya etaplar\u0131n\u0131 indik. Her taraf \u015felale olmu\u015f ak\u0131yordu. Alt\u0131 bo\u015f karlar iyice can\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 s\u0131k\u0131nca kar kulvar\u0131na az kala 2. sikkemizi de b\u0131rakt\u0131k. Art\u0131k hava iyice kararm\u0131\u015ft\u0131. Kar kulvar\u0131na inip sonu gelmeyen bir \u015fekilde y\u00fcz\u00fcm\u00fcz kara d\u00f6n\u00fck front point yaparak ini\u015fe devam ettik. Sonlara do\u011fru Egemen&#8217;in can\u0131na tak etti ve yar\u0131 topuklad\u0131 yar\u0131 kayd\u0131. Biz Cihanla topuk yapamad\u0131k ve muntazam bir \u015fekilde front pointe devam ettik. 22.10 da \u00e7\u0131k\u0131\u015fta kramponlar\u0131 takt\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z yere geldik. Ayn\u0131 \u015fekilde yar\u0131m saatlik bir molan\u0131n ard\u0131ndan vadide y\u00fcr\u00fcmeye ba\u015flad\u0131k.00.15 de eski bivak yerimizi, yan\u0131na baba yapm\u0131\u015f olmam\u0131za ra\u011fmen, bulamad\u0131k ve ba\u015fka bir kayan\u0131n alt\u0131n\u0131 haz\u0131rlayarak uykuya dald\u0131k. Sabah 7.00 da kalkt\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131zda Egemen 50 metre \u00f6tede eski bivak yerimizi g\u00f6r\u00fcnce cok \u015fa\u015f\u0131rd\u0131k \ud83d\ude42 Geceyi rahats\u0131z ge\u00e7irseydik belki k\u0131zard\u0131k da ama yakla\u015f\u0131k 19 saat d\u0131\u015far\u0131da durdu\u011fumuz i\u00e7in gece s\u0131rt\u0131m\u0131za batan ta\u015flardan kimse rahats\u0131z olmad\u0131, herkes deliksiz uyudu; daha do\u011frusu uyumu\u015flar \u00e7\u00fcnk\u00fc ben uyudu\u011fumda Egemen ile Cihan daha \u00e7orba i\u00e7iyordu \ud83d\ude42 Sabah Egemen \u00f6nde Cihan&#8217;la ben arkada Ak\u015famp\u0131nar\u0131&#8217;na gittik. Faaliyeti de ba\u015flad\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z gibi Mehmet Abi&#8217;nin evinde yemek yiyerek bitirdik.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p style=\"line-height:1.2\"><strong>Her \u015feyiyle \u00e7ok g\u00fczel bir faaliyet oldu. Her duygudan biraz vard\u0131. Bende korku biraz daha fazlayd\u0131 gerci ama olsun. Sa\u011f sa\u011flim a\u015fag\u0131 indi\u011fimiz i\u00e7in herkes zirve yapm\u0131\u015f kadar mutluydu. Trakt\u00f6r \u00fcst\u00fcnde \u00c7ukurba\u011f&#8217;a do\u011fru yol al\u0131rken ise Mehmet Abi&#8217;nin laf\u0131 faaliyeti bir bak\u0131ma \u00f6zetliyordu: &#8220;En iyi da\u011fc\u0131 d\u00f6nebilen da\u011fc\u0131d\u0131r.&#8221;<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Raporu Yazan: <strong>Celil YA\u011eIZ<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<div style=\"height:30px\" aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-spacer\"><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p style=\"line-height:1.2\">Kaynak: https:\/\/web.archive.org\/web\/20071201044050\/http:\/\/www.dost.bilkent.edu.tr\/content\/view\/10\/1\/<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Foto\u011fraflar kurtar\u0131lamam\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. Orijinal Yaz\u0131: Celil Ya\u011f\u0131z 19.07.2007 &#8211; Edit: Bu faaliyetten bir sene sonra Egemen, 2 arkadasiyla tekrar denemis bu rotayi. Cikmislar da. Rotada biz 50 metre solda kalmisiz. Tunc&#8217;un Aladaglar&#8217;da 50 Rota kitabinda anlatilirken kulvarin ikiye ayrildigi yerde saga doneceksiniz yaziyor ama iste bir turlu emin olamamistik biz. Kaldi tarafina cok da yaklasmamak lazim [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":11,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[48,13,1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-227","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-2006-2007","category-dagcilik-faaliyet-raporlari","category-faaliyet-raporlari"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/dost.bilkent.edu.tr\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/227","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/dost.bilkent.edu.tr\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/dost.bilkent.edu.tr\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/dost.bilkent.edu.tr\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/dost.bilkent.edu.tr\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=227"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/dost.bilkent.edu.tr\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/227\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":228,"href":"https:\/\/dost.bilkent.edu.tr\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/227\/revisions\/228"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/dost.bilkent.edu.tr\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/11"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/dost.bilkent.edu.tr\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=227"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/dost.bilkent.edu.tr\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=227"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/dost.bilkent.edu.tr\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=227"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}